São João del Rei and Tiradentes

Another change of location. Monday I was relocating to São João del Rei about 190 Kms south. Although the bus station was only a kilometre distant I called Uber again. I had previously visited the bus station so I knew where to go. It was on two levels with several platforms, one for local, the other for long distance. Case loaded and receipt given we set off on the two and a half hour journey.

It was a long climb out of Belo Horizonte on the BR356 a federal highway. The standard of driving seemed so much better than around towns and I was much impressed by the coach drivers professionalism.

The coach arrived at São João del Rei where I had arranged to be met by Edson, the brother of my host. Rose, my host, She had an interesting house in the historic part of the city. The style and colours reminded me of the nineteen thirties. A simple house on one level but very clean. Breakfast was quite simple. Coffee from the thermos flask that every house seemed to use, some bread and cheese and fruit.

I had long had a fascination with Tiradentes, a small town with a history. Views of tiled rooves and cobbled streets filled my head and Edson was taking me there by car. We stopped just outside the town centre to pick up a friend of his, Christina, a retired translator. There were views of the mountain that overlooks the town and she invited me up the steep path to take photographs. The house was simple and modest but I noted she still had someone to help her with cleaning the house etc.

Edson dropped me by the small bus station and I walked up a steep hill which offered views of the Igreja Matriz on the other side. Tiradentes was named after a local hero who was executed after a rebellion against the government. Tiradentes means literally "take the teeth" and legend has it that he performed tooth pulling. The roads were cobbled or flagstones but I found the place to be very touristy. Nearly every building was a restaurant or a souvenir shop.

I made my way across the small town to visit the Igreja Matriz but on the way found another interesting church: The Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário  pretos dating from 1708. It was small, almost plain by Catholic standards but the decoration still interested me. There were two small side chapels but I couldn't make out anything as they were unlit and without windows. Digital cameras; what a saver. I upped the ISO to 3200 and shot away until I had what I wanted. Similarly with the roof paintings where I was able to lay the camera on its back until I had the composition correct.

Next stop the Igreja Matriz where I was disappointed to pay the five reais admission and be advised that photography was not allowed. On asking why, and pointing out that I had no intention of using flash, I was told it was for security because of the quantity of gold within the church. I couldn't work this out as there are plenty of photos to be found using Google. I entered the church and respected their request. There was a guide talking but my Portuguese wasn't good enough to follow at the speed they were talking. A couple approached and the girl kindly explained the details. She was an architect from São Paulo. We took photos of each other, but not names and I continued my exploration.

Outside the historic centre the town didn't offer much interest apart from a eating place where I was able to buy a cold beer and chat to the proprietor.  I made my way back to the bus station where I waited for the bus back to São João del Rei. The journey of about 20 Kms took about 30 minutes and I was surprised to be charged only 3 reais. I thought she had said 13 reais.(£3). It was an experience being on a bus that sounded as if it would fall apart on the next hole in the road but it arrived back safely.

That evening Rose invited me to join her on a visit to a local bar. She ordered some fish from the cabinet along with cauliflower in batter and other interesting bits. The fish was quite fleshy and I later discovered it was cascudo, a Catfish. We consumed a few beers and she introduced me to her friends, it was good to chat and also help her friend Cris who was learning English.

I liked São João del Rei much more than Tiradentes. It might not be so pretty but it still has lots of interest. It wasn't a tourist trap like Tiradentes but a place where ordinary Brazilians lived, worked and played. I felt 100 per cent safe here, even alone after midnight. 

I had found the Brazil I wanted to experience.